StudentShare solutions
Triangle menu

Prediction of Coastal Wave Breaking - Essay Example

Not dowloaded yet

Extract of sample
Prediction of Coastal Wave Breaking

However the magnitude of such waves may be unequal.
In the process, the energy from the wind is transferred to the wave and this is then carried on to great distances. In this process, a waver undergoes many transitions in its energy and characteristics when it interferes with other waves. The energy of such a wave might then increase or decrease when such interferences occur. In this phenomenon of energy transfer, the water molecules itself do not physically move with the wave but rather pass on the energy in the direction of the wave by just moving up and down. Creation of waves is a continuous process and therefore small and large waves can be seen almost continuously to be moving towards the shore.
Such waves are created at any location in oceans irrespective to its relative location with the land mass however differential temperature play an important role in governing where shall the wind blow from and eventually plays a vital role in generation of waves. The temperatures of oceans also differ from each other and the kind of waves that can be seen in one differs much from the other.
When the wave approaches landmass and as the sea floor begins to rise, the wave gradually changes its shape. Its physical form gets transformed and edge waves are generated by this interaction. When a swell reaches the coastline it also comes nearer to the sea floor which offers friction and results in eventually slowing down of the wave. The wave loses some part of its energy with this contact. With this retardation in speed, the period of the wave is shortened and thus the wave height increases and this creates more visible and turbulent crests in a wave. This phenomenon of slowing down of waves is called shoaling.
The manner in which this happens is largely dependent upon the nature of the sea floor; especially it's gradient. This process of shoaling ultimately results into a situation where the top of the wave attains a considerable height and the forward movement of the upper part overtakes the wave and begins to spill foreword. This results into the disintegration of the wave formation and thus resulting into what is called a 'wave break'. This breaking of wave is dependent on many different factors such as the type of swell, the direction and intensity of wind, slope of sea bed and sea floor features like physical objects, vegetation etc.
The factor of wind is the most vital in understanding and prediction how the wave shall break in what time of the day. When the offshore wind is blowing from the land side to the seaside, it prolongs the time that a wave takes to break. The wind blows to act against the top part of the wave and thus provides it a support. Therefore the wave takes longer time to break in comparison to what it would have taken in the absence of wind. In this case the wave creates more powerful break when it is achieved. The onshore wind that flows from sea side to the landside acts in the opposite manner to the phenomenon explained in the offshore winds and therefore it lessens the time that a wave needs to break by pushing the upper part of the wave. In a way, it aids the water to break even before it reaches the desired amount of rise so as to cause its naturally swelling. In this phenomenon it can be seen that many times the waves break before teaching the ...Show more

Summary

The flow of winds over water bodies creates ripples on the surface of water and thus creates disturbances which make it rough. Taking grip of such a rough surface, the stronger winds that flow over the surface, again push the ripples in the direction of wind, and thus those small disturbances take a larger form by growing into waves…
Author : hagenesmeggie
Prediction of Coastal Wave Breaking essay example
Read Text Preview
Save Your Time for More Important Things
Let us write or edit the essay on your topic
"Prediction of Coastal Wave Breaking"
with a personal 20% discount.
Grab the best paper

Related Essays

The French New Wave is about Breaking the Rules
The French New Wave is a term used to express displeasure with the French film makers of the 1950s and 1960s. This movement was never organized formally. According to Bazin (1985, 248-259), this group of film makers deliberately rejected the traditional classical cinematic form.
9 pages (2250 words) Essay
Coastal engineeringdesign of a cocastal defence scheme in south east england
This will tackle the findings of a choice study that will evaluate the amenity benefit of alternative coastal defence system that are currently being considered. The results indicated that the traditional coastal defence options such as timber and rock groynes does not generate amenity benefits while a multi-purpose reef would generate significant benefit in the improvements and management of the visual appeal of the beach.
15 pages (3750 words) Essay
Significant of Edge Waves and Shear Waves
Waves can become unexpectedly strong and destructive. As waves enter shallow water, they become taller and slow down, eventually breaking on the shore.There are several types of waves; among them are the edge wave and the shear wave. The paper will able to evaluate the significant of the edge wave and the shear wave.
6 pages (1500 words) Essay
Coastal Defence
Second, there are coastal protection structures, a term used to describe measures taken to prevent the land from being eroded, such as sea walls along the base of cliffs. (Cooper 9-15) In estuaries, tidal processes facilitate the accumulation of thick deposits of sand, silt, and clay, reaching to the upper limit of the tidal range.
4 pages (1000 words) Essay
Wave Overtopping on Coastal Structures
Breakwaters are used extensively along coastlines all over the Earth and those that can allow wave overtopping without significant damage to effective structures and, thus, to properties and life they shelter are considered of eminent construction. Wave overtopping is a violent natural phenomenon that causes serious damage to protecting structures and life and property along coastlines (Shao, 2006).
14 pages (3500 words) Essay
Wave Overtopping and Coastal Structures
Wave structural parameters used had been acquired from Shao, 2006, and it had been found that those former parts that the Shao, 2006, turbulence model was the most appropriate as it took into consideration a larger number of parametric values pertaining to wave and coastal protection structures.
9 pages (2250 words) Essay
Wave-current interaction
ng tests in deep and shallow water, concept, installation and dredging tests, and free sailing and captive sea keeping and maneuvering tests in wave-current combinations and on shallow water” (Margaretha, 2005). “Because fluid motions can be induced and perpetuated by a
3 pages (750 words) Essay
Teaching Prediction
This allows students to improve their ability to make inferences about new material when it is presented. The method follows a
3 pages (750 words) Essay
Target Prediction
What sites does “mir-223” bind in the 3’ UTR for this mRNA? To answer, click on the corresponding “Site in UTR” link. Then, copy paste screen shot. The sites will be designated as outlined boxes. Using your answer to Question 1.f in
2 pages (500 words) Essay
The French New Wave is about breaking the rules. To what extent do you agree/disagree with this assertion
It became a bright example of European art cinema. New wave production tended to be a shift from the conservative style. The new wave was heavily
9 pages (2250 words) Essay
Get a custom paper written
by a pro under your requirements!
Win a special DISCOUNT!
Put in your e-mail and click the button with your lucky finger
Your email
YOUR PRIZE:
Apply my DISCOUNT
Comments (0)
Rate this paper:
Thank you! Your comment has been sent and will be posted after moderation