Wave Theories and Their Applicability

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The main purpose of this coursework is to understand the waves generated by wind and how they have been described using different approaches and wave theories lead to their applicability in deep and shallow waters.


This disturbance carries the energy and travels through the water from one location to another without or temporarily transporting the water on which the wind acts. It is like transfer of power or energy from one thing to another. The wind exerts the force on water to form the wave to carry its energy. Then where the wind energy comes from It's again recursive. It's not the topic of discussion in this coursework.

Very high waves with long overhanging crests. The resulting foam is in great patches and is blown in dense white streaks along the direction of the wind. On the whole, the surface of the sea takes a white appearance. The rolling of the sea becomes heavy and shock like. Visibility is affected.

Exceptionally high waves (small and medium sized ships might for a long time be lost to view behind the waves). The sea is completely covered with white patches of foam lying along the direction of the wind. Visibility is affected.

After many years of experience and deep observations with water waves lead to the development of different wave theories. And Stokes Wave Theory is the one among them. In this theory Stokes uses the common approach of generation of waves due to the wind. The three major parameters involved in the theory and they are the waves, which are subjected to certain boundary conditions, the equations of motion and the fluid (ideal or perfect or frictionless) on which the wind acts to form the wave. ...
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