The evolution of Italian Fashion - Essay Example

The Evolution of Italian Fashion Evolution of Gucci Fashion House The Gucci Group designs and clothing retail store was incorporated in 1923 by Guccio Gucci in Florence, Italy. Guccio Gucci was born in 1881, in Florence, Italy. When his father’s hat-making company underwent bankruptcy, Gucci left the country. Gucci travelled to London and secured a job as a dishwasher at the Savoy Hotel. Most of the customers of Savoy Hotel came from European and American upper classes. As a dishwasher, and a waiter at the hotel, Gucci was observing the habits and lifestyles of the wealthy individuals. Gucci noted that Savoy Hotel customers used quality leather luggage, prepared by European craftsmen. He discovered that the wealthy individuals were obsessed with quality, and never cared much about the cost. Later, Gucci returned to Florence where he worked in an antique store before moving to a leather firm (Steele 23). After the World War I, Gucci began working in a leather firm that manufactured quality leather products. The owner of the firm, Franzi, taught Gucci all the elements of leatherwork, including the tanning processes, selection of hides, and how to work with different kinds of leather. Gucci started his own leather business in Florence in 1921; the store prepared leather for the affluent tourists who visited Florence. Since the business grew the reputation of Gucci, quality luggage started to spread in Europe. By the end of 1923, Gucci gained wide recognition for its distinctive craftsmanship. The dictatorship of Benito Mussolini in 1920s led to harsh sanctions on the country. As a result, Gucci was not able to purchase all leather he needed in his shop. Gucci began designing and making handbags and luggage of both leather and canvas (Jones 434). In his book, Jones notes that affluent customers of Gucci products increased thus enhancing the business in both Florence and Rome. Wallets, belts, and Gucci floral scarf were among the products of Gucci stores. Guccio died in 1953, and immediately, his son Aldo arranged to open Gucci stores in U.S. During 1950s and 1980s, the company opened new stores, and there was a booming business for the Gucci products especially in 1960s (Jones 435). Under the direction of Aldo, new Gucci stores came into being in Francisco, Philadelphia, Chicago, Palm Beach, and Beverly Hills. In the late 1980s, the company experienced problems due to Gucci family wrangles. In early 1990s, the Gucci business was in disarray and sales reduced precipitously, and there was debts accumulation. In 1989, InvestCorp International acquired fifty percent in Gucci and formed a 50/50 joint venture with Maurizio Gucci. In 1993, InvestCorp bought Maurizio Gucci’s shares and gained full control of the company. Under the direction of Domenico De Sole as the CEO, the company was rebuilt and is one of the world leaders in luxury goods. Former Accessories Creative Director, Frida Giannini, was named as the sole Creative Director in 2006; he generated a single vision that fuses history and modernity (Welters and Lillethun 506). In 2009, Patrizio di Marco replaced Mark Lee as the Chief Executive Officer of Gucci. Under Patrizio’s management, the fabulous Italian brand’s astonishing heritage and long-lasting standards were emphasized. This also included its high fashion and ambitious style. In year 2011, Gucci Company celebrated ninety years in fashion. In the 14th century palazzo, there are pieces from the wide archives on display. They include handbags, headscarves, luggage, loafers, coats, Oscar gowns and jewellery. The cumulative effect of these products reveals the yarning of Gucci through the past fabric into contemporary culture (Welters and Lillethun 507). Evolution of Versace Fashion House Gianni Versace was the founder of Gianni Versace S.p.A. Italian Fashion Company. Versace has its headquarters in Milanese palazzo and is the only second rival of Giorgio Armani fashion house among Italy’s fashion designers. The company has a wider variety of products including lingerie, makeup, umbrellas, hosiery, watches, shoes, jewelry, and fragrances. Lines within the Versace group include Versus, Versace Jeans Couture, Versatile, Versace Sport, Young Versace, Versace Classic 2, and Home Signature. Its products are distributed through over 300 boutiques and 2,000 associated stores. While in the process of converting the privately held business to a public company, the founder of the company, Gianni Versace, died in July 15, 1997. After the death of Gianni Versace, his elder brother, Santo, an accountant, managed the finances, while the younger sister Donatella oversaw accessories, advertising, and her own line within the group. Donatella also assumed the role of the chief designer (Jones 438). Gianni Versace was born in 1946, in southern Italy; his mother was a seamstress, and his father an appliance salesman. His mother, Francesca, produced gowns for the region’s elite. Gianni started his road to high fashion when a young boy; he made little puppets and dolls from the snippets of fabric that littered his mother’s studio. After his architecture studies in 1960s, Gianni resided in his homeland of Reggio Calabria, first apprenticing with his mother and later operating two separate boutiques showcasing his women’s and men’s fashions. In 1972, owner of Florentine Flowers of Lucca, Ezio Nicosia, invited Gianni in Milan to design a knitwear collection for winter and fall; his designs were successful (Steele 25). In the succeeding years, Versace contracted with Callaghan, De Parisini of Santa Margherita, Genny Group, and Alma ready to wear lines. Versace produced the Compliance collection for Genny, but in 1977, he struck out and presented his first signature collection. His dazzlingly colored, sexy styles for women made sales of US$11 million in the first year. In 1978, Versace opened his initial Milanese boutique and launched his first menswear collection (Welters and Lillethun 511). In 1980s, Versace developed symbiotic relationships with artists and arts, particularly in the areas of popular music, theatre, and dance. Versace designed clothing and costumes of these artists and his customers served as walking billboards for his wares. His circle of clients or friends expanded in his step with his design prowess. During this period, Gianni Versace S.p.A. launched various brands to suit different market needs, which included high heels, colorful prints, leather, baroque themes, and overt sexuality. In 1990s, the company engaged in rapid diversification through brand extension. In 1991, the corporation introduced Versatile, a line of designer clothes for women, which included pleated miniskirts and leopard cat suits. That same year, Versace launched Jeans Couture. In 1993, the company launched a line of Home Signature tableware, bed and bath linens carpets, and lamps among others. With the introduction of Versace Make-up in Europe, the company joined a highly competitive realm of color cosmetics. Today, Versace conducts various operations in cities such as Paris, New York, and London (Welters and Lillethun 510). Evolution of Armani Fashion House Giorgio Armani is the Chief Executive Officer of the Armani group, and sole shareholder of Giorgio Armani S.p.A. Armani is one of the global leading fashion and lifestyle design houses, with 13 factories, 5,000 direct employees, and direct network of five hundred exclusive retail stores in 46 states internationally. Mr. Armani’s entrepreneurial ability and his philosophy of fashion and style have significantly contributed to the success of Giorgio Armani. He oversees the corporation’s strategic directions and all elements of design and creativity. Today, the corporation’s products include men’s and women’s clothing, bags and shoes, eyewear, watches, fragrances and cosmetics, jewelry, and home furnishings (Jones 440). Armani began as pure designer, and progressively acquired several production facilities into his company on its path of becoming a lifestyle and fashion powerhouse. Armani was born in 1934, in Piacenza, Italy. In 1957, Armani abandoned his medical studies and began working as a visual merchandiser and buyer for La Rinascente, an Italian leading departmental store. In 1964, Armani began to work for Nino Cerutti; he learned tailoring and materials in menswear. In 1970, Armani and Sergio Galeotti established a freelance studio for fashion design; they did contract designs for various producers including Gibo, Boulevard, Sicons and Montedoro. During this period, Armani learned the acquired vital knowledge in industrial production (Welters and Lillethun 513). In 1975, Armani and his partner founded Giorgio Armani S.p.A; during this period, the first Giorgio Armani menswear collection was produced and later followed by the first women’s wear collection. From 1975 to 1982, Armani established vast line extensions, which included Giorgio Armani-Le Collezioni (men’s worldwide and women’s North America) and Giorgio-Armani-Borgonuovo 21(men’s and women’s). Others were Armani Junior; Armani Underwear, Swimwear and Accessories; Mani (men’s North America and women’s ROW); Armani Bridal Collection; Armani Jeans; and, Emporio Armani. In 1984, Armani ventured into brand extension where it launched Armani Fragrance. In 1991, Armani launched Armani Exchange on the U.S. market (Jones 28). From 1991 to 2000, Armani carried out business consolidation and vertical integration by acquiring manufacturing facilities, direct retail possession, and establishing extra joint ventures in manufacturing and distribution. In 2000, Armani launched its first online store in the United States market. This was an addition to its line expansion, which included house wear with Armani Casa. In 2005, among its various line extensions, Armani launched Armani Prive, which was first haute couture collection (Steele 27). Through MSN.com, the company offers live online streaming of the assortment first runway show. In 2006, Armani joined (RED), an organization with an initiative of fighting AIDS in Africa. In 2007, Armani launched another online store for Emporio Armani line in the U.S. market. In 2008, Armani launched the first online luxury stores in the European market with Emporio Armani. Today, Armani can be regarded as one of the global leading fashion and lifestyle design houses (Welters and Lillethun 514). Why the city of Milan has become the fashion capital Internationally, Milan is recognized as one of the world’s most prominent fashion capitals, along with New York, Paris, London, Tokyo, and Rome. In 2009, the city surpassed its relative cities and was nominated as fashion capital of the world by the Global Language Monitor. Milan started as a centre of fashion in the middle Ages and Renaissance; the production of luxury products was an essential industry. In the 16th century, the city got the name millaner, meaning excellent wares such as clothes, hats, jewellery, and luxury apparel. In the early 20th century, Milan became a key center of textile and silk productions. Milan’s fashion picture became glamorous in 1970s, and the city became a popular shopping destination, with various boutiques that sold both elegant and everyday clothes. Milan is home to several fashion designers including Giorgio Armani, Garavani, Valentino, Gianni Versace, Prada, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana (Musterd and Allan 55). The evolvement of the city of Milan as a fashion capital has led to change of the Italian culture. Milan has two fashion weeks, one in autumn and another in the spring. There are various fashion institutes and agencies in Milan, which include Beatrice international Model Agency, Why Not Model Agency, and Istituto Marangoni fashion institute. The Menswear exhibition occurs between fall or winter and spring or summer in the city. There are concerts, parties and other cultural events that enclose the fashion shows. For example, Milano Moda Uomo (Men’s Fashion) fall or winter (January), Milano Moda Donna (Women’s Fashion) fall or winter (February to March) and Milano Moda Donna or Women’s Fashion (Killerger 235). Italian Designers Italian designers are considerably renowned in the world of high-end fashion. Italian designers have successfully confined the hearts of fashion savvy persons internationally. The quality, durability and style of their various products such as clothes, shoes, accessories, cars and gadgets have made them gain popularity all over the world. Various designers such as Giorgio Armani, Gianni Versace, Prada, Dolce and Gabbana, Guccio Gucci began their designing careers in Italy. These designers applied their designing skills and entrepreneurial abilities to start their famous fashion houses. They started their business operations on a small scale and gradually expanded their operations worldwide. The quality of their products facilitated the expansion of business operations of various Italian designers. Most of the prominent fashion labels originate from Italy. Brand names such as Cavalli, Gucci, or Fendi are associated with high-end quality styles, luxury, and creativity. Italy is recognized for its designer shoes, handbags and accessories that are of high quality, stylish, trendy, and fashionable (Steele 30). Works Cited Jones, Sue. Fashion Design. London: Laurence King Publishing, 2005. Print. Killinger, Charles. Culture and Customs of Italy. Oxford: Greenwood Publishing Group, 2005. Print. Musterd, Sako & Alan Murie. Making Competitive Cities. New York: John Wiley & Sons, 2010. Print. Steele, Valerie. The Berg Companion to Fashion. London: Berg, 2010. Print. Welters, Linda & Lillethun, Abby. The Fashion Reader: Second Edition. London: Berg, 2011. Print. Read More