How does Historical Costume Relate to Contemporary Fashion - Essay Example

How does Historical Costume relate to Contemporary Fashion? Section March 2007 How does Historical Costume relate to Contemporary Fashion? The fashion industry has been the source of pride and joy for any culture in the world. It reflects a complex mixture of interwoven commercial enterprises. It is also through fashion that a development, progress, and wealth of a nation can also be traced with. The evolution of clothing is essential in determining the progression or digression of its very society. The kind of material, fabric, accessories, and jewellery all makes out about the kind of culture, civilization, and social status an individual belongs to. But as society transcends its own barriers, society has found its way to revive historical costumes and imbibe into today’s contemporary fashion. For purposes of discussion, the fashion designs to be discussed are limited to the 1900s up to the 2000s. This is done mainly to narrow the focus of the topic as well as to limit the fashion timeframe. On the other hand, the terms costume and fashion are also defined and discussed. Costume Various definitions of the term costume been devised in an attempt to give justice to its essence. According to Princeton Wordnet (2007), costume is an ‘attire characteristic of a country, time or social class.’ With this very meaning, there is evidence to believe that costume is distinctly identified with a particular time frame, place and society. It is not only confounded into one’s dress but it also encompasses the entire package such as the accessories, type of fabric, shoes, undergarments and the like. The same definition applies in Wikipedia (2007), where it describes a costume in reference to a ‘wardrobe and dress in general, or to the distinctive style of dress of a particular people, class, or period…’ Henceforth, it can be safely assumed that once a particular period of time has passed, let us say the 1970s, contemporary styles during such time period can be classified as ‘costume,’ based on the definitions presented. Fashion Meanwhile, the term fashion is defined by Wikipedia (2007) as ‘…consists of a current (constantly changing trend), favoured for frivolous rather than practical, logical or intellectual reasons.’ Through this definition, ‘fashion’ may not necessarily be favoured by the majority of society but is a moving trend or craze at the time it was conceived. The term can also explain why there exists a person called ‘fashionista’ or those people who set the trend or produce a rapidly changing style. Fashion may not necessarily be ‘wearable’ or comfortable. At times it just makes out a ‘statement’ about a particular cause, issue or mood. Fashion may be the latest and most admired style in clothes, cosmetics and behaviour. On the other hand, it can also be a mode of action, behaviour or conduct in a particular point in time. No matter how extreme the definitions being attached to the word fashion, it can just be simply stated as the current mode of dressing. Historical Costumes and Contemporary Fashion The 1990s During this decade, the most in-style outfits were similar to the women of the Belle Epoque, the era to which being referred by the French. This was an epoch of beautiful clothes and the peak of luxury living for a select few - the very rich and the very privileged through birth (Thomas, 2005). These women retained the ‘elaborate, upholstered, hourglass-shaped style of the 1800s’ (Wikipedia, 2007). During this time, no fashionable lady was able to dress and undress herself, thus clothes worn still required the assistance of a helper or third party so as to maintain the curvaceous S-bend silhouette had been prevalent up to around 1908. A trend of the Edwardian corsetry, the corset was too tightly laced at the waist and so forced the hips back and the drooping monobosom was thrust forward in a pouter pigeon effect creating an S shape. During this time it was still usual to make dresses in two pieces. The bodice was heavily boned and was almost like a mini corset itself worn over the S-bend corset. A top bodice was usually mounted onto a lightly boned under bodice lining which fastened up with hooks and eyes very snugly. It acted as a stay garment giving extra stability, contour and directional shape beneath the delicate top fabric. The high collar, S bend corset, trained skirt and lavish hat all had an effect on the posture of an Edwardian lady and it gave her a certain swaying grandeur. Between 1906 an 1909 the silhouette began to show gradual changes and skirts lost fullness and the silhouette straightened. Feet showed again, as similarly shown in the Bell Epoque-inspired gown by Cameron Diaz (left photo). The left photo shows the fashionable lady of the 1900s. The model is wearing an S-bend corset that is tightly laced at the waist, thus forcing the hips back and drooping mono bosom was thrust forward in a pouter pigeon effect creating an S-shape. The picture at the topmost right illustrates how Geena Davis attempted to revive such trend when she won the Academy award in 1988 for her role in the ‘The Accidental Tourist.’ Designed by Bill Hargate, it was a. ice-blue satin strapless gown. On the other hand, actress Kiera Knightley may have also attempted the S-shape bend, sans the drooping V-neck line, when she wore a Vera Wang aubergine-coloured creation during the 2005 Academy Awards (picture at the bottom right). The 1910s During this time period, the fashion world was focused on a sense of Orientalism. It was couturier Paul Poiret who was one of the first designers to translate such style into the fashion world (refer to top right photo). Such outfits transcended from having a third party that would assist the bearer of the dress. Meanwhile movie star Barbra Streisand also attempted to modernize this look by reflecting similar drapery and see-through look (bottom right photo). However, the dress used a different fabric material to make her look more European rather than Oriental. It was an Oriental turned European dress which was also the modern translation of the bell-bottom pantsuit that was a hit trend during the 1960s. Added to the modern look of the dress was the shimmering glitters that sparked when the camera lights hit the embroidered threads. The 1950s The fashion in the 1950s brewed a strong sense of nostalgia coming off from trends of the 1920s and the 1930s. It was also during this period that women opted to wear dresses from opulent materials, with corseted waists and swirling skirts to mid-calf. American culture became very dominant in Europe. The influence of movie films and the prominence of film stars set the fashion in manners, make-up, hair and clothes. Women, girls, men and youths all desired look-alike copies of outfits, accessories and jewellery worn by the most popular screen idols. It was widely believed that Hollywood glamour would rub off on you if you had the clothes and developed the look. One way to achieve the look was to make your own clothes and customise them so they had a similar look to fashions worn by celebrities of the day. Notable Hollywood figures like Marilyn Monroe, Lauren Bacall and Grace Kelly were considered the style icons of the decade. Luxurious materials were used for this style of clothing namely: sequins, chiffon, and fur. These materials were simply cut and designed in a low-cut neck to a dress which reveals the stunning features of the bearer. Left side photo shows the fashion styles worn by most Hollywood actresses during this period. On the other hand, actress Scarlett Johansson (top right photo, at previous page) has been often lauded for her old Hollywood glamour. This Roland Mouret vintage 1940s glam gown was perfectly suited to Johannssons sexy curves on the Academy awards red carpet in 2005. The blue posed dress (right photo) also illustrates another style to this trend, but still maintaining the swirling mid-calf skirt and low-cut neck line. Another style of the fifties was epitomized by Oscar winning actress Gwyneth Paltrow in her calf length, small waisted full skirt (bottom left). Hollywood actress Penelope Cruz recently revived a detailed blush-colored Versace gown inspired by the fifties (left bottom photo). Except for the feathery end the twisted her curves right down the end of the gown, the fifties style was clearly evident with the evening gown by designer Charles James (right bottom photo). James’ drapery design was further accentuated with the uniquely curved skirt. Another style of the fifties that is quite difficult to ignore is the classic sleeveless dress with straight cut neck line lying across the chest (left and middle photo). The yellow green color in itself is unique to the current style of the decade. Except for the strap and skirt, notice the similarity of the dress with the acid green gown of Nicole Kidman (right photo), particularly in the manner in which the bodily shaped curve of the dress hugged the bearer A creation by John Galliano of Dior, this 1996 Oscars gown was a clear winner during that time. It mixed the fifties style with the Orientalism style of the kimonos, cheong sam and other oriental-inspired dresses of the 1910s. Based from the fashion trends mentioned, one thing is clear: revival is inevitable. In the decade called the Y2K or the ‘00s, fashion as well as the arts in general has out rightly and proudly searched for and took great inspiration from the costumes created by various designers in the past. Vintage clothing, which ranged from the sixties, seventies and even the eighties have become extremely popular in today’s fashion world that current designers have begun to emulate such collections in the hope of bringing out an ultimate fashion style that will rock the current generation and yet complement the classic history of fashion. The early part of 2000 started off with the minimalist look of the nineties. Later on, fashion trend evolved on bringing out the fresh look, with some influence of the modern music of the day. But at the end of the day, designers still take part in revolutionizing vintage fashion with their own taste of creativity and modern glamour. Truly, none of today’s current fashion trends would have ever existed if not for the invaluable contribution of historical costumes. And as previously mentioned, all factors that influence the modern fashion is interwoven with the various materials and ideas from the past. The answer as to how such phenomena came about is still unknown. But one thing is sure, like any worldwide phenomena, the world of fashion will continue to puzzle and dazzle the human mind into exploring new trends and styles. References ‘Costume.’ Retrieved from website: . ‘Costume.’ Retrieved from website: . ‘Fashion.’ Retrieved from website: . ‘History of Fashion Design.’ 2007, Wikipedia: The Free Encyclopedia. Retrieved from website: . Thomas, P. 2005, Fashion Era. Just cite the books that you have. Read More